Chevy Tracker Manual Relay
VIN: 2CNBE13C7Y Symptoms: Poor Idle Quality, Cuts Out, Stall, After driving for a while, the RPM'S jump up.
I have a 2000 Tracker with 150,000 miles on it. In the last 2 months it has begun to stall and will not start when it is hot outside and the engine gets warmed up. If I let it set for approximately a half hour, then it generally starts again. Anyone else have this problem. My garage mechanic has no idea. I have replaced the catilytic converter and some other engine pieces with no luck. One guy who walked by my car when I was trying to start it said it sounded like the fuel pump to him.
Any HELP!!!!! Would be greatly appreciated, as I can't drive it now. I have had to have it towed 3 times in the last month.
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Have a 2003 Chev Tracker and I melted the plastic housing (don't ask how) on both the headlamp covers. I need replacements, but boy are they pricy. Any suggestions on sources for replacement headlamps? The Suzuki, same year, looks totally different, so thats not an option. While I'm at it.any ideas on how to turn off the DRL's so I won't melt the headlamps again? Okay, I'll tell. I strapped the kayaks on the roof down from the bow over the headlamps to the front tow hook.
The foam I was using to 'protect' the headlamps from the straps melted into the lamps and left a gaping hole on each one. I have a 1999 2WD Chevy (Geo, Suzuki!)w/ 105 k miles. Twice now in 2 years the engine has totally died. All other electrics were OK ( lights starter etc.) No 'check engine' light. Starter would crank normally, but no start.
Since the car has a vibration at freeway speeds I checked those relays that I could find ( not quite sure why so many relays when a switch would do). Tried again, started right up and ran the 1000 miles to home. Now a year later same problem. Did the relay game again.
Since I was only a mile from home I had AAA tow it. With manual in hand I located another flock of relays cleverly located high up on the left kick panel above the cabin fuse panel (there's more fuses in the engine compartment). Shook, removed/replaced ALL. Jumpered the fuel pump relay (sub'd a wire for the make/break contacts). Two months later I was listening to the radio in the car ( I have comments on removable stereo faces too!) and just by chance cranked the engine. Fired right up!
Chevy Tracker Manual Relay Location
One of my manuals ( I have Haynes & the 2 volume factory book ) mentioned, ever so casually, 'intermittent fuel pump, likely a poor ground'. Before I drop the tank and preemptively replace the fuel pump, as well the too small wire (read, minimum needed!), has anyone met and cured this problem? Since my Cherokee blew a head gasket I need the Tracker!
Thanks, Tom PS; Just went for the smog test. Test codes erased due to battery disconnect (that 2 months must be it!). Was told to do at least 100 miles on the freeway to reset the computer. That in a car Im afraid to drive at all! I have visions of an 18 wheeler bearing down on me when the engine conks out! Well I loooove my baby, It has 107k miles on it. I only had one problem when the gear shift chain broke.
That cost $58. I have always maintained according to the dealer standards. I want to invest a few bucks in it this year so any ideas of what I need to prioritize I would love to know. This is my last car purchase and I want to keep it in immaculate condition. I am 57 and have so many other things I need to do with my money than buy a new car.TRAVELLLL!!!
I am retired so the luxury cars have come and gone. Decided to make a practical purchase in '99 that would be inexpensive to maintain. So any thoughts please please let me know. Hi I've got to say Best of Luck, but I'm not sure ANY contemporary car has affordable repairs. The prior owner of my Tracker had the heater core replaced 3 years ago - and it just started leaking again.
Her cost was $800 - that's $300 core (outrageous!) PLUS $500 labor. I'm doing it myself, so believe me, I understand the labor cost. NOTHING is built for maintenance since the designers think mechanics are, at best, monkeys. I replaced 3 very minor emissions parts on my wife's Corolla. $372 for parts that were so minor in size & complexity that $100 SHOULD have been high. By the way I'm 70 and still working on this stuff! Good luck, Tom.
Hate to tell you that I have no idea what the Cam Position sensor is. However, I do know that I just had mine replaced - even though the mechanic told me he couldn't guarantee that it would fix the problem - and it seems to have done the trick. I am now driving my tracker and it hasn't stopped yet. It is expensive, it cost me $260.00 for the sensor and an additional $75.00 to replace it. Hope this helps. I did NOT go through a dealership, as my Tracker is a 2000 and has 150,000 miles on it. Since yours is a 2003, you may want to take it to a dealership.
My 1999 Tracker just started doing this a couple of weeks ago once outdoor temperatures started hitting the 90s (F). It only does it sporadically, though. I've also left it idling in park and it's died a few times and then it does the 'spit and sputter' ordeal again trying to get it started. When it first happened, I thought the timing belt had slipped or broken.
But, after about 10 minutes, it started right up and worked fine the rest of the evening. A couple of days later, in the heat of the afternoon, it started the 'spit and sputter' deal again. This time, I thought maybe it was some bad gas or water in the tank.
Put some gas treatment in and it worked - again - for a couple of days with no problem. I scheduled a visit to the shop for it last Friday to be dropped off over night on Monday. BUT, it went all the way from last Thursday through the weekend and most of Monday with no further problem. So, I cancelled the trip to the shop. Would you know it!? Monday night it started acting up again.
Now, I read this thread and I'm pretty well convinced it must be this CAM Position Sensor that's been mentioned. I'm in and out of the car a lot and decided to try raising the hood of the car between trips. So far, knock on wood that seems to have prevented any further episode throughout this past evening. BTW, it's been HOT-HOT here in Metro Atlanta, GA - 100+ F day after day. So, just how sure should I be that the CAM Pos Sensor is the culprit?
Advanced Auto has one onhand for $164 +/- plus tax. I know I can change it out myself, but would hate to spend this much money and it not be the fix I need. Cheers for any reply and further suggestions.
I have owned a 1999 Tracker for about a year and it has about 89k miles on it. You say that you have to replace the coils on it every 40k miles or so.
Are we talking about what appear to be the spark plug leads? I have a problem that just started yesterday where the car just would not start - the starter motor would not engage - although the idiot lights all work, along with headlights, etc.
In desperation I disconnected the battery, let it sit for about 10 minutes, and re-connected it. The starter motor and engine did crank but it seemed to do so very slowly, kind of like what you would expect when the battery was about to shoot craps. I was able to drive the vehicle home and it started a second time, but on the third attempt it once again would not crank over. I took the battery to an auto parts store and it checked out fine.
Does anyone have any idea what to try next? Hi there, My past massages dealt with me breaking the timing chain and trashing my engine in my 2001 Tracker. I have since replaced the engine with a low mileage, wrecking yard engine. The engine has run good and has performed well, up until now. It began one day recently, when it was rather hot. I had stopped for gas and when I got in an re-started it, it acted like it was out-of-timing and trying to kick backwards. Finally after letting it set 10 minutes or so, it started and ran smoothly???
Well, it has gotten progressively worse. Last week, it was a hot day, I got stuck in stop & go traffic and it sputtered and coughed and stopped. After letting it set for 5/10 minutes, it started, ran smoothly and I was able to get out of the stop & go mess. It happened again this last Saturday, after driving about 50/60 miles, it coughed and stopped running. Again, Let it set 5/10 minutes, it started right up and I continued my trip without a problem. It appears to me that it is the Cam Sensor problem you folks have been mentioning.
MY QUESTION IS: Is the Cam Sensor just a bolt-on replacement, or does the timing have to be set by it? (Like a old Distributor required?) Also, the AutoZone inexpensive replacement, is it a quality-built replacement part, or junk? By the way, my 2001 Tracker has 230,000+ miles on it and is still tracking on! (except for this minor glitch!). You need to go back to the main page, there is a whole category on 'Chevy Tracker Starting and Stalling Problems'. I have posted a message asking a question and so far no-one's answered me???
Here is my message:. It began one day recently, when it was rather hot. I had stopped for gas and when I got in an re-started it, it acted like it was out-of-timing and trying to kick backwards. Finally after letting it set 10 minutes or so, it started and ran smoothly??? Well, it has gotten progressively worse. Last week, it was a hot day, I got stuck in stop & go traffic and it sputtered and coughed and stopped.
After letting it set for 5/10 minutes, it started, ran smoothly and I was able to get out of the stop & go mess. It happened again this last Saturday, after driving about 50/60 miles, it coughed and stopped running. Again, Let it set 5/10 minutes, it started right up and I continued my trip without a problem. It appears to me that it is the Cam Sensor problem you folks have been mentioning.
MY QUESTION IS: Is the Cam Sensor just a bolt-on replacement, or does the timing have to be set by it? (Like a old Distributor required?) Also, the AutoZone inexpensive replacement, is it a quality-built replacement part, or junk? By the way, my 2001 Tracker has 230,000+ miles on it and is still tracking on! (except for this minor glitch!). As a follow-up, I took the advise from a previous post. When I stop after driving for awhile, I have to open the hood and pour water over the Cam Sensor to cool it off.
I get back in and it cranks right up like nothings wrong. I know it is the problem, but I need to know if it just a bolt-on replacement, or do you have to set the timing with it?
(In other words, can I do it myself, or does it require a mechanic with timing equipment?) Hope this helps you figure out your problem. I still need an answer??? Regards, Sam. I guess you didn't see my message where I ask some questions about replacing the Cam Sensor? What I need to know: 1.
Is the sensor just a bolt-on replacement, or does it require setting the timing again? Any special tools? Not being familiar with the Cam Sensor, is it the bolt-on part, just behind the valve cover, on top, rear of engine, or is it just one of the plug-in leads hooked to that part? Is the AutoZone Replacement good quality, or just junk? If junk, where is the least expensive source to find it? I would appreciate some brief instructions on the replacement of the Cam Sensor, thus saving me the Mechanic's outrageous costs.
If you can provide an answer, this is something I need to fix right away, as the hot weather is hitting now. (Tired of having to pour water on sensor to cool it down, after stopping in stop 'n' go traffic!) Thanks, SNichol. I thought I would put in my 2 cents. I have a 2001 Tracker 2.0L with around 60k miles and I have been having the same trouble (Engine hard to start when hot and stalls when idling too long). My car has been in the shop since Monday (today is Thursday). It was tough for the mechanic to troubleshoot, but he seems confident that it is the camshaft sensor assembly.
Sounds like it is going to cost me a little over $500 for parts and labor. Maybe I'm getting ripped off, but I couldn't figure out what was wrong. I didn't find this forum until he told me it might be the camshaft sensor assembly. Hi everyone, This is my first post.
I have a 1998 chevrolet tracker that has 127,890 miles, 16 valve,1.6 liter engine. Ran good until one day my daughter drove it to the minute mart, she got back in to start it, would not start.
I went and got the car and brought it to the house. I checked the fuel line including the fuel filter.all OK.
I checked the timing and replaced the timing belt(wore out). Checked the spark on spark plugs.yellow spark, it tries to start when I try and hold the peddle half way, pushing the peddle to the floor floods it. I also checked vacu hoses and nothing seems out of place. Thank you in advance. I need to make some corrections.
First off spark plug had a bright white spark, not a yellow spark, this was based on someones word until I checked it out myself. I did a compression check on the no.1 cyl and the no. No.1 had 105 and no.4 had 97, do not have an idea what these cyl are on compression.readings. The fuel pump's ok and getting fuel to the carb. Took the plug wires off(1 and 2), and cranked the engine, than took two of the spark plugs out(1 and 2), no gas or gas smell but had oil on the no.1 plug, and on the no.2 plug I had a faint smell of gas and oil covered plug. I am suspecting bad or clogged fuel injectors.
2000 Chevy Tracker Manual
Your thoughts please.
The fuse box is located on the driver's side where the dimmer switch control is. There is a brown fuse box cap that has to be removed and you will see the fuses. There are also some bigger fuses under the hood on the left when you open the hood. On the 1999 I have there is also a fuse panel under the hood. It is on the right side, just over the fender well. The AC clutch fuse is in a single small square holder to the rear and right of this other fuse panel, (about 6 to 8 inches away).
The larger panel will have all the high amp fuses. REMOVING REAR BRAKE DRUM -'02 TRACKER. THAT IS WHERE i AM TODAY. IT WILL HAVE TO BE ANOTHER DAY WITH A LOT OF SUNSHINE HOURS.
Ni WAS ABLE TO FIND THIS MUCH ABOUT SUZUKI'S. NREMOVE THE PARKING CABLE CABLE AND LEVER TO GIVE YOU EXCESS CLEARANCE WHEN YOU REMVOE THE DRUM. NYOU WILL NEED A SLIDE HAMMER AND ATTACH TO REAR DRUM AND REMOVE THE DRUM WITH THE SLIDEHAMMER. NBE CAREFUL OF YOUR FINGERS n. NYOU COULD ALSO USE A GEAR REMOVAL TOOL AND ATYTACH TO THE 2 SCREW HOLE (LOOKS LIKE 8MM) AND PRESS IT OUT. To remove front rotors: 2002-ZR-2/ 4WD n. Do one side at a time and lay parts aside in order of removal for ref.
Use safety blocks. Remove lug nut plastic covers,brake lug nuts loose. Raise side to be worked on and remove tire. Remove two small bolts on back of calipers, pull ass'bly up and tie with cord to prevent dropping and damageing. To remove torque plate (which hold calipers) two large bolts are torqued quite tight and will take some effort to loosen.They are located just below the two small ones in step-3.Turn wheel to inside to expose better. Rotor should be free of brake ass'bly now. Pry dust cover off center hub to expose six bolts holding outer hub.Remove the six bolts and tap hub off.
Remove the 4-phillip head screws and note their position to the back mounting plate of axle locking plate. Note tightness of axle nut plate via spinning wheel. Remove nut plate to pull rotor off axle. Installation: Use proper torque specs exspecially on large torque plate bolts when re-installing. N10.Note: Depress the caliper piston into its bore before installing over rotor.
NNow, with all that said. Rotors can be measured and turned while on Tracker.Check before doing all above if nthis is your situation.